Based on my experiences during three years in Bishkek, I offer the following advice about living in Kyrgyzstan with young children:
1. Although some people might feel anxious about moving to this part of Central Asia, Kyrgyzstan is not an inherently dangerous place. Bishkek is a wonderful city; small, easy to walk around with a buggy – although some of the pavements are a challenge!; green spaces to visit with a child; parks to promenade in. Since I was there in 2005 I understand the city has changed a lot with more conveniences arriving every day. When we lived there, there were many things you could not easily buy. From what I understand you can find most things now.
Outside Bishkek, life is very different, rural Kyrgyzstan would be harder to live in from a practical perspective but an amazing adventure! Although I did travel as much as I could, my experiences of day to day living were just in Bishkek.
2. Of course, the concept of risk and danger is a personal thing. As I write in Revolution Baby “I reasoned with myself that life is all about balancing risk, finding a compromise between safety and reality, caution and sense. Staying in England wasn’t necessarily the answer. According to some statistics the most dangerous occupation there was driving your children to school, something I’d do without questioning.”
As you will discover if you read Revolution Baby, my greatest concern was medical care; I worried what would happen in the event of a medical emergency. Kyrgyz hospitals are not of a high standard. The best advice I can give is to ask around when you arrive about where the best medical facilities are. I found a clinic where an American doctor was working and so used to visit him. I found out where to get a scan from asking a woman with a baby in a supermarket!
3. This leads on to the crux of my advice about how to help yourself best in Kyrgyzstan – contact the Bishkek International Women’s Club. (They now have a website – http://bishkekiwc.googlepages.com/) Such societies might not be everyone’s thing, you may not like all the women there, but they are, in my opinion, a crucial support network. For example, many women in the BIWC will have experience of childcare. They can recommend kindergartens, nannies or babysitters
4. There are ways you can live to keep safe, these are just common sense things you may do in any city. For example, be careful about the transport you use, many taxis or minibuses are in a terrible condition, they don’t have seat belts and the driving is crazy!
Be careful at night – there are few streetlights so it is very dark. Muggings are not a huge risk – unless you are out very late and being careless. We found the greatest risk was that many manhole covers have been stolen and you don’t want to fall down there! Choose carefully where you buy, for example, meat. The BIWC is a great source of shopping expertise. You will meet many women who are completely paranoid about things like this, and don’t go to markets. You will learn to make your own choice about markets, but if you are sensible about valuables etc, they are fantastic places. I used to love shopping from the little bazaars or ladies selling fruit and veg on the street. In summer the choice is fantastic, fresh and cheap!
5. The range of accommodation was increasing greatly when we left and there were lots of comfortable flats and houses available. Again, people in the BIWC can give advice on good areas to live if you are concerned. One practical thing to look out for is a hot water tank in the bathroom. Hot water and central heating are provided centrally, and you are kept very warm, but for one month a year the hot water is turned off, for “maintenance work” and so it helps with comfort if you have your own hot water heater in the flat.
7. We were there during the Tulip Revolution. Although the political situation is unstable, it is unlikely such a thing will happen again! This was when the support network of the BIWC was invaluable. We were not there with a large company or embassy so did not have corporate support. It helps to have people you can rely on. Some would advise having a Kazakh visa so that you can leave via land if you need to. This was not something we did.
8. I would recommend good medical insurance, with cover to airlift you out should you, God forbid, need it. It helps to be prepared. I also took a range of medications with me that I was happy to use. Although you can buy most things in Bishkek, my problem was the language issues, understanding what something was. I also took some immunisations with me that T needed while we were away, then timed other visits home for when he needed the next jab – medical tourism someone called it, the way you dash from dentist to doctor for check-ups on home visits!
9. We had a wonderful time in Kyrgyzstan and were very happy there. Arriving with a child can be an advantage as they open many doors. I was a member of a wonderful toddler group, through the BIWC.
10. Kyrgyz people themselves are incredibly friendly, welcoming and hospitable. There are wonderful opportunities to enjoy the beautiful countryside and unknown culture, both refreshingly untouched by the outside world. Although I was cautious and did not venture far into the remote mountains with my young baby (he was very travel sick so driving through mountain passes was not pleasurable for anyone!), I loved the chances I did have to explore outside Bishkek. Kyrgyzstan is beautiful, remote and unspoilt and I would very much recommend a night in a jailoo.
If you have any comments or further questions, please do not hesitate to contact me on contact@saffiafarr.com
